M3D Software - The official Slicer

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The software

Access to the M3D software & release notes are available via the M3D Portal [1]

Latest version

  • Installer 2015-07-15-setup_m3dbeta-V1.3.5.0.exe
  • Spooler Version 2015-07-15-v1.3.5
  • Firmware Version 2015-07-13-01

The software is still under development (Beta), therefore has bugs and limitations.

Software Release Notes - Version 1.3.5.0 Release

  • Mac software should be compatible with OSX 10.9 (Mac Only)
  • Mac software will check the current Mono version to make sure it is the latest (Mac Only)
  • Fixed bug that caused crashed when loading the font file
  • Firmware must be upgraded before the software will continue.
  • Fixed bug in file associations opening up a second window. (Windows Only)
  • Fixed speed bug that caused mistakes in the final gcode
  • Fixed bug from version 1.3.4.4 that caused some of printer information to not be requested
  • Fixed bug causing crash on program exit.

G-code

For experts there is the possibility to send manual g-codes to control the hardware. You can find a long list of common g-codes here http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code Not all of them are supported so far and there are some special g-codes for The Micro. It may change in every firmware

Handy g-codes

G0 E20  ; Extrude 20mm of filament (where EXX) defines the number of millimeters you wish to extrude

Known special g-codes

G28  ; Move to Origin (Home)

G32  ; Drive System Calibration

G33  ; Set Z0 manually

M114  ; Get head location, or just Z height right after boot

M117  ; Get internal state

M572  ; Get backlash values from EEPROM

M573  ; Get Bed orientation from EEPROM

M576  ; Get filament info

M577  ; Set manual bed offsets (ex. M577 X0.0 Y0.0 Z0.0 E0.0 F0.0) X is back left, Y back right, Z front right, E Front Left, F is Z offset

M578  ; Get manual bed offsets

Workarounds

Cleanup

After using M3D software some time, you may want to cleanup your computer

  • Full cleanup:
    • Close M3D software
    • uninstall M3D software
    • delete folder c:\Users\YOURUSERNAME\AppData\local\M3D
    • re-install M3D Software
  • Spooler files cleanup:
    • Close M3D software
    • Files are stored in C:\Users\YOURUSERNAME\AppData\Local\M3D\Spooler\queue and can be deleted without problems
  • Library cleanup
    • Close M3D software
    • remove files from C:\Users\YOURUSERNAME\AppData\Local\M3D\M3DSoftware\Working
    • remove old entries from C:\Users\YOURUSERNAME\AppData\Local\M3D\M3DSoftware\Data\recent.db

Manual calibration

For perfect adhesion on the print bed, your Micro owns an automatic calibration system. This should find the sweet spot automatically, which is absolutely needed for printing on buildtak. If you have problems with adhesion (too high or too low) you can try to calibrate manually.

Read and understand procedure first. Any problems, pull the power cord! (After pulling the power cord, you may have to recalibrate - yes we're doing this right now ;-) ) Please be aware, that you can really break your printer when sending wrong g-codes, this may violate your warranty!!! I'm not responsible for any failures

  • Remove old filament from tip of nozzle

Center the printhead

  • G28  ; go to origin (center)
  • G90  ; absolute mode

now try to get the printhead close to the printbed, but do not damage the printer ;-)

  • Start with G0 Z1  ; move nozzle 1mm above print bed
  • try G0 Z0.8
  • ...
  • Go as low as you can, so that only 2 or 3 sheet of paper will fit between nozzle and buildtak.
  • When you believe your settings are correct, store your new Z0 settings with G33
  • M18  ; Disable motors

Try another print and maybe correct your settings. Keep in mind, printing too close on the buildtak will create too much adhesion and damage the buildtak or printer.

Filament bug

In some cases loading and unloading of filament is not possible via the GUI. Software sticks on heating nozzle 100%, but the filament remains in the extruder. Here is a short workaround to unload and reload filament.

Read and understand procedure first. Any problems, pull power cord! (After pulling power cord, you may have to recalibrate)

Please be aware, that you can really break your printer when sending wrong g-codes, this may violate your warranty!!! During this procedure nozzle becomes hot, don't get burned! I'm not responsible for any failures


Removing filament

  • Go to Settings - Advanced - Expert Mode
  • Enable Checkboxes All Reads, Writes, Log to Screen, Log Feedback, Auto Scroll, Track State
  • Send the following g-codes in this order (the comment ;... doesn't need to be sent ;-) )
    • M106 S200  ; Enable Fan S0=0% S255=100%
    • M104 S200  ; Heat up nozzle 200°C
    • *G91  ; relative positioning
    • M105  ; Check Temp
  • Repeat this a while
    • M105  ; Check Temp
  • Until at least 195°C ;-)
    • G0 E20  ; Extrude 20mm filament, to remove thickening at the tip of the filament. Will reduce chance for filament getting stuck in the extruder
    • G0 E-100  ; Retract 100mm of filament
  • Gently pull out filament during retracting from extruder
  • now go to Loading filament or go to END


Loading filament

  • Cut off tip from new filament to have no thickening
  • Feed filament in extruder
    • G0 E100  ; Extrude 100mm of filament
  • wait for filament getting extruded from nozzle
  • No filament coming out? Feed some more
    • G0 E50  ; Extrude 50mm of filament
  • You can see filament coming out? Perfect ;-)
  • now go to END


END

  • Use tweezers to remove filament from nozzle
    • M104 S0  ; Disable heater
    • M107  ; Disable fan
    • M18  ; Disable motors
  • Uncheck all checkboxes except for AutoScoll, otherwise your printer will slow down to almost 0
  • Close Expert window
  • Go to Settings - Manage filament
  • Click on not correct
  • Choose new filament

Happy making :-D